93/100
The Hecht & Bannier 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages displays the vibratory kinetics; abundance of vivacious fruit – yet here possessed of almost liqueur-like sweetness; and complexity of mineral elements that one has come to associate with the best wines of this vintage. Lily and heliotrope mingle with the aromas of ripe black raspberry, blackberry can cassis, then offer persistent inner-mouth allure as the sweet berry concentrate saturates the palate while mouthwatering salinity and schistic crushed-stone and peat-like smokiness build in intensity toward a finish the displays – for all of its richness – the remarkable sense of levity and vibrancy that is often attributed to the alleged miracle of chalky soils such as characterize Vingrau. This much though is sure: You don’t have to believe in the efficacy of geological underpinnings to recognize the dazzling complexity and uncanny balance on display here. This phenomenal value should make for riveting entertainment over at least the next 5-7 years, and probably – though the track record is only now accumulating – for significantly longer. US$22
